Things to do in Djerba Midun

Djerba is the largest island in North Africa. It is flat, low and planted with olives, about 514 square kilometres of it. A causeway crosses to the mainland at El Kantara, following a Roman alignment.

What the island holds

The settlement pattern itself is World Heritage listed. Houses stand scattered instead of clustered, each with its own well, cistern and patch of ground. Mosques and market towns tie them together.

• Houmt Souk — the main town, with the old merchants' fondouks and the fish auction.
• Midoun — the eastern town behind the hotel strip, and the island's biggest weekly market.
• Erriadh — the village painted by invited muralists since 2014, known as Djerbahood.
• El Ghriba — the synagogue at Erriadh, and a spring pilgrimage at Lag BaOmer.
• Guellala — the potters' village on the south coast, still firing wood kilns.
• Ras Rmel — the sand spit off the north shore that the boats call Flamingo Island.

On and off the water

Most of what sells here is short. Boats run out to Ras Rmel for lunch, to Sidi Jmour by catamaran, and after dolphins. Divers and fishing trips leave from the same jetties.

On land it is quad, buggy and camel country. The island is flat, which helps. A cooking morning starts at the fish market and finishes at the table.

Off the island

Djerba is also the eastern gate to the south. Ksar Ghilane, an oasis with a hot spring at the edge of the sand sea, is the usual first night. Tataouine and Chenini add the hill villages and their fortified granaries.

Longer circuits carry on to Matmata, Douz and Tozeur. Four days is the common length. A private departure lists at about double the group seat, so four sharing come out ahead.

Practical

• Season. March to June and September to November are the comfortable months. High summer is hot and still, and the island's record sits above 46C.
• Sea. Shallow and warm, and swimmable well into October. The beaches are on the north and east shores.
• Getting in. Djerba-Zarzis airport is at Mellita in the west. Otherwise it is the causeway or the Ajim ferry.
• Getting about. There is no useful bus for visitors. Hotel shuttles, taxis and hired quads or bicycles do the work.
• El Ghriba. A working synagogue with security at the door. Bring a passport, cover your head, expect a bag check.
• Desert nights. Camps are plain and cold after dark from November. Take a fleece, a torch and closed shoes.
• Wind. It cancels parasailing and jet ski slots, usually for a refund or a reschedule. Ask which before you pay.