Ireland's romantic register is atmospheric in the way of a country where the landscape changes every twenty minutes and the light is unlike anywhere else in Europe. The Connemara coastline in the west — blanket bog, quartzite mountain ridges, and island-dotted sea in a light that shifts from silver to gold to grey within a single afternoon — is the Irish landscape experience that painters have been trying to capture since the 18th century. A stay in a restored Georgian country house hotel in Kerry, with a turf fire and a full Irish breakfast and nothing to do but walk the cliff path, is the Irish honeymoon format that requires no further explanation. A proposal at the Cliffs of Moher at the specific moment when the sun breaks through Atlantic cloud and the sea goes suddenly brilliant is a setting that does all the work. Take it all in.