Morocco's sightseeing moves at medina pace. The great square at dusk, when food stalls and storytellers take over from the daytime crowds, is the country's defining outdoor theatre. The Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs, the medieval madrasa, and the garden owned by a fashion legacy form the formal circuit. But Fez makes Marrakech look simple: the world's largest car-free urban area requires a full day with a guide who knows the tanning district viewpoint and the rhythms of a market quarter where different trades occupy different alleys as they have for 800 years. Tours by locals add the missing layer. Take it all in.