India's sightseeing carries the full weight of multiple empires and civilisations. The great Mughal monuments of the north, the ancient Islamic architecture of the old city, and the iron pillar that has not rusted in 1,600 years form one sightseeing register. The cave temples of Ajanta and Ellora, cut from living rock, represent the greatest surviving ensemble of ancient Indian art. The Mughal architecture of Agra, the medieval temples of Khajuraho, the living temple city of Varanasi, and the classical dance traditions are each complete cultural worlds. The national museum's collection of 5,000 years of Indian civilisation requires strategic visiting. Tours by locals add the missing layer. Take it all in.