Cape Verde's sightseeing moves between islands that carry entirely different cultural and historical registers. The Atlantic Creole identity is documented in music centres and colonial architecture on one island, while the ruins of the first European colonial city in the tropics stand on another. The active volcano of Fogo, its caldera village rebuilt and re-abandoned after a 2014 eruption, offers a sightseeing experience of a completely different kind. The country's Ethnographic Museum covers the complex mixing of African and Portuguese cultures that produced a Creole identity unlike any other. Tours by locals often show the softer side — the details that stay with you longer. That's where the magic happens.