Seoul

Seoul became a capital in 1394, and four mountains still frame its centre. The old city wall runs about 18 kilometres over their ridges. The Han River cuts the city in two.

North of the river

This is the historic half, and most of it is walkable.

• Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. The two main palaces. Each closes one weekday, and entry is free if you wear hanbok.
• Bukchon. Hanok lanes between the palaces. People live there, so keep your voice down.
• Insadong. Tea houses and craft shops, with the royal shrine of Jongmyo close by.
• Gwangjang and Dongmyo. Gwangjang market dates from 1905 and is known for mung-bean pancakes and gimbap. The flea market at Dongmyo deals in antiques.
• Myeongdong. Cosmetics shops and street food, on lanes that stay busy late.

South of the river and west

• Yongsan. Home of the National Museum of Korea, with free permanent galleries.
• Hongdae. A university district in the west, with live music and K-pop dance studios.
• Gangnam. The business and shopping district across the Han.

Days off the subway

A private driver covers what the subway does not, and one full-day option includes airport or cruise-port pickup at no extra cost. Hanbok photo sessions start at the palace gates. For a cheaper afternoon, phone-guided puzzle walks run through the palace quarter and the National Museum.

Practical

• Weather. January highs stay near 1C, with nights around -6C, and heated floors are standard indoors. Late June and July bring the rains, and August runs humid at 31C. Autumn is the clearest season.
• Subway. Fares start at about 1,500 won on a T-money card. Trains stop shortly after midnight.
• From the airport. The airport railway reaches Seoul Station in under an hour.
• Barbecue. Many places serve a two-portion minimum, which is awkward for solo diners.
• Tipping. Not customary in restaurants or taxis.