Things to do in Mtskheta

Mtskheta stands where the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers meet, about 20 kilometres north of Tbilisi. It was the capital of Iberia, the ancient kingdom of eastern Georgia, from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. Things to do in Mtskheta are mostly churches.

The three UNESCO monuments

Christianity became the state religion here in the 4th century. Mtskheta kept serving as the coronation and burial place of most Georgian kings after the capital moved to Tbilisi. UNESCO listed three monuments in 1994.

• Svetitskhoveli. The cathedral was built in 1010–1029 over earlier churches. Legend puts Christ's robe beneath it.
• Samtavro. An 11th-century church and convent, half a kilometre north-west of the cathedral. King Mirian III and Queen Nana are buried inside.
• Jvari. A church built between 590 and 605 on the hill across the rivers, about 200 metres above the town. St Nino is said to have raised a wooden cross there in the 4th century.

Beyond the old town

• Armaztsikhe. The ruined royal fortress on Mount Bagineti, 4 kilometres south-west. The chronicles credit King Pharnavaz with founding it in the 3rd century BC.
• Shio-Mgvime. A cave monastery in a narrow limestone canyon, 30 kilometres from Tbilisi. By tradition the 6th-century monk Shio founded it.

What gets booked

Tours in Mtskheta are day trips from Tbilisi, and many include a hotel pick-up. The short version takes five hours and covers the three churches. Group and private versions both exist.

Longer days run seven and a half to nine hours. They add Uplistsikhe, a cave town cut into rock east of Gori, and Gori itself, with its Stalin Museum. One private day swaps these for Armaztsikhe and Shio-Mgvime.

Practical

• Weather. July and August afternoons run near 30C. January afternoons stay near 5C, with frost at night.
• Dress. Women cover their heads, and everyone keeps knees and shoulders covered. Some churches keep scarves at the door.
• Services. Svetitskhoveli is a working cathedral, and worship takes priority over visitors.
• Getting here. The drive from Tbilisi takes about half an hour. The old town is small enough to walk.