Rides in Paphos

Rides out of Paphos mean jeep safaris, and the terrain explains why. Around the town lie two districts an ordinary car simply cannot enter: the Akamas peninsula with its stony ruts and the Troodos mountains with the forestry service's gravel roads. Rental firms do not extend their insurance to such routes, so people go in prepared four-wheel drives with a local driver.

The Akamas route follows the shore: the Avakas gorge, Lara beach where turtles lay their eggs in summer, and the descent to the Blue Lagoon. The Troodos route climbs through pine forest to the high villages, to the Caledonia and Millomeris waterfalls and along monastery roads no ordinary tour can drive. Both versions take a full day, and lunch at a village taverna is usually included in the price.

Practical notes. The shaking is real: these trips are not recommended for people with back or neck trouble, for pregnant travellers or for very small children. The dust hangs in a column, so light clothes and a good camera are better left behind while sunglasses come along. There are no window seats in an open bed — every seat there is exposed, and only a hat keeps the sun off. After heavy rain some tracks are closed and the route is changed on the spot.