Cruises in Greece

In Greece a boat is often not entertainment but the only way to reach a place. Balos and Gramvousa in western Crete, Navagio on Zakynthos, Spinalonga off Elounda — none of these has a road to it, only water. So sea programmes here divide not into "pleasure" and "transport" but by how much time you spend ashore and how much on deck.

Day cruises are the commonest format. A catamaran or large motorboat leaves in the morning, runs along the coast, stops in two or three bays for swimming, and lunch is served aboard. On Santorini the route is built around the caldera: to the hot springs by the volcanic islet and on towards Oia, so that sunset is met from the water. In the Ionian islands — Kefalonia, Ithaca, Zakynthos — cruises run between islands, and half the day goes on the crossings.

Practical notes. Everything depends on the wind: under the meltemi, the summer northerly of the Aegean, sailings are cancelled or shortened and money returned. There is almost no shade on deck, so sunscreen and a hat are needed even on a cloudy day. On stony beaches such as Balos, water shoes come in useful. Anyone prone to seasickness should sit amidships and stay out of the cabin.