Things to do in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is a walled town on a rock. Almost everything about a visit follows from its size: the old town is about five hundred metres end to end.

It held out as an independent republic for centuries. The method was not military. It paid tribute to whoever happened to be stronger.

Inside the walls

• The city walls. Two kilometres of circuit, walkable in about ninety minutes, and the single best thing here.
• Stradun. The limestone main street, polished by feet, rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake.
• The Franciscan monastery. A pharmacy running since 1317, one of the oldest in Europe.
• Game of Thrones. King's Landing was filmed here, and the filming locations are sold as their own walk.

Where the days go from here

Dubrovnik is a base as much as a destination. The Elaphiti islands are an hour offshore and sold as a boat day with lunch. Two borders are close enough for a full day out.

• Kotor and Perast. The Montenegrin bay, two hours south.
• Mostar and Kravice. The Bosnian day, with the bridge and the waterfalls.
• Medjugorje. A pilgrimage run, sold separately.

When to come

May, June and September are the working months here. July and August add heat to the crowds, and the walls have no shade. Winter is quiet and half the boat offer stops.

Practical

• Cruise ships. Up to several a day in summer. The walls are unbearable between ten and four; go at opening or late afternoon.
• The walls in heat. No shade and no way off once you start. July and August mean early morning or evening.
• Stairs. The town is built on a slope and the old town is stepped throughout. Not an easy place with a wheelchair or a pram.
• Border days. Montenegro and Bosnia are outside Schengen. Passport, and allow an hour for the crossing in season.
• The cable car. Runs to Srđ above the town, and the view is the reason to take it.