Sightseeing in Paphos

Paphos sits at the western end of Cyprus, and that shapes the whole geography of its excursions. The nearest sights are in and around the town: the archaeological park with Roman mosaics, where the House of Dionysus keeps floors from the second century, the Tombs of the Kings cut into rock, and Aphrodite's Rock twenty-five kilometres to the east, where by legend the goddess came out of the sea.

Beyond that the day trips begin. North lies the Akamas peninsula: the Blue Lagoon, the Baths of Aphrodite, the sea caves; a reserve no ordinary car can enter, so jeeps and boats go there instead. East and upward lies Troodos with the Kykkos monastery and the village of Omodos. The longest routes head to the north of the island, to Kyrenia and Famagusta: from Paphos to the dividing line is about three and a half hours each way, and such a day starts before dawn.

Practical notes. There is almost no shade in the archaeological park, and the mosaics are viewed under open canopies, so morning is the better time. A passport is needed for trips to the north. The Akamas jeep safari shakes in earnest: it is not advised for those with back trouble or for pregnant travellers, and belongings in an open bed get fully coated in dust. Monasteries are entered with shoulders and knees covered.