Sightseeing in Heraklion

The chief reason to come to Heraklion lies five kilometres to the south: Knossos, the palace of the Minoans, where Arthur Evans early last century rebuilt the columns and painted them red so the visitor would grasp the scale. That reconstruction is argued over to this day, but the throne room and the bull-leaping frescoes make their impression precisely because of it. The originals are kept in the Archaeological Museum in the city itself — the Phaistos disc, the snake goddess figurines and the whole Minoan collection.

The city itself is Venetian to the bone. The Koules fortress closes the entrance to the old harbour, and the waterfront runs from it; in the centre stand the Loggia, the Morosini fountain with its lions and the market on 1866 Street. On the city walls is the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, with a view over all of Heraklion, and it is better climbed towards evening.

Practical notes: Knossos and the museum are taken together, a joint ticket comes out cheaper, but the two need half a day at least. There is no shade at Knossos and a July noon is hard to bear there. The port is a cruise port, so tours are fitted to the ship's call — give the departure time when booking. Rethymno is 80 km from here, Chania about 140.