Things to do in Zambia

Zambia's map comes down to two places, really. Victoria Falls and the Zambezi sit in the south, on the border with Zimbabwe, near the Botswana crossing at Kazungula. South Luangwa, in the east, is a full day's drive or a separate flight away.

The falls, the river, the walking safari

• Livingstone and Victoria Falls. The south, shared with Zimbabwe across the river and with Botswana at the nearby Kazungula border.
• South Luangwa. The Eastern Province valley where the walking safari was born, reached via Mfuwe.
• Lusaka. The capital, mostly a transit point between flights rather than a destination.
• Lower Zambezi. A quieter river park further downstream, usually its own trip.

What the country is for

Victoria Falls changes completely by month. March to May brings a wall of water and spray; by October or November, the Zambian side can run dry. The river below carries rafting, sunset cruises and, in season, the walk out to Devil's Pool.

South Luangwa does something Kenya and Tanzania mostly don't. Walking safaris, on foot with an armed guide, began here and still define the park. Night drives with a spotlight run too, in parks where they're allowed.

Most of South Luangwa's camps run private or small-group vehicles rather than big trucks. Groups stay small, four guests or fewer.

Practical

• Weather. Dry season May-October (26-36C by day, hottest in October) suits wildlife and river activities best; the wet season November-April is hot, humid and brings the falls to their fullest.
• Park fees. South Luangwa charges around 25-30USD per adult per day at the gate, plus separate levies at in-park camps; Victoria Falls' Zambian side is 20USD, against 50USD on the Zimbabwean side.
• Getting between regions. Lusaka to Livingstone is about ninety minutes by air or a seven-hour drive; South Luangwa is usually its own flight into Mfuwe rather than an add-on.
• Malaria. A real risk across both Livingstone and South Luangwa, worth a word with a travel clinic before departure.
• Tipping. Guides and camp staff are tipped separately, in cash, at the end of a stay; ten percent covers a restaurant meal in town.