Things to do in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires stands on the Río de la Plata. A first settlement in 1536 was abandoned by 1542, and Juan de Garay refounded the city in 1580. Tours in Buenos Aires start from the old core around the Plaza de Mayo.

Around the Plaza de Mayo

The old centre packs its landmarks into a few blocks.

• Casa Rosada. The government house at the head of the square.
• Pirámide de Mayo. The small monument at the centre of the plaza.
• Catedral Metropolitana. The city's main cathedral.
• Manzana de las Luces. A colonial Jesuit complex, with the church of San Ignacio de Loyola.

The neighbourhoods

San Telmo is the colonial quarter, and La Boca the colourful, bohemian one. Puerto Madero is glass towers and riverside restaurants. Recoleta and Palermo are the smart districts, and the Obelisk stands on Avenida 9 de Julio.

Tango and a table

• El Viejo Almacén. A tango house with over 50 years behind it, a live orchestra and a three-course dinner with Malbec.
• Señor Tango. A 1,500-seat hall with a rotating stage and more than 40 artists.
• Madero Tango. Dinner and a show, with a window view over the river.
• Wine in San Telmo. A 60-minute sommelier tasting in an old cellar, pairing wines from the north-west, Patagonia and Cuyo with small plates.

Out to the pampas

The gaucho day trip leaves the city for an estancia on the pampas. It runs seven to eight hours. Expect empanadas, a barbecue, folk dances, horse riding and a carriage ride.

Practical

• Weather. January averages 25C and is humid. July averages 11C. Rain falls in every month.
• Tipping. About 10 per cent is usual in restaurants.
• Dinner. Restaurants fill late, from about 9 pm.