Shopping in Istanbul

Shopping in Istanbul is rarely sold on its own: the bazaar belongs inside a route rather than replacing it. The Egyptian spice market is taken together with a morning Bosphorus cruise — water first, then the rows of spices, lokum, dried fruit and cheese; the whole thing fills half a day. The Grand Bazaar turns up inside private walks across the historic peninsula, following Hagia Sophia, the Cistern and the Blue Mosque, with an hour or so left for it — enough to cover the main lanes without getting lost among four thousand shops.

Outside the city the logic holds. Bursa, visited as a day trip with the Uludağ cable car, historically traded in silk, and its covered market is still about cloth rather than souvenirs. The Princes' Islands are the opposite case: no trading rows at all, only small shops along the streets, browsed between the ferry and lunch.

Practical notes. Haggling is expected at the bazaars — starting around half the quoted price is normal, though not in shops with price tags. Carpets, leather and gold come with a certificate: ask for it on the spot, since without one export can raise questions at customs. The Grand Bazaar closes on Sundays; the spice market works but on shorter hours. And count the weight: spices and ceramics are heavier than they look on the counter.