Things to do in Split

Split is not a town with a Roman palace in it. It is a palace with a town inside. Diocletian finished his retirement compound around 305 AD, and people never moved out.

The palace and the town

The cellars still carry the original vaults. The cathedral above them was the emperor's mausoleum, which makes it one of the oldest buildings used as a church anywhere.

Bars, flats and shops occupy the rest. What you walk through is a living quarter, not a ruin behind a fence.

Everything else happens on the water

Split is the main port of central Dalmatia, and its catalogue floats. The boats come in two kinds. They are not the same day out.

• Island runs. The Blue Cave on Biševo, Hvar, Vis and the five-island loop, usually a full day with swimming stops.
• Party boats. The Blue Lagoon and after-dark trips, a separate crowd and a separate hour.

Land days

Two national parks sit within reach. They differ in kind. Krka lets you walk beside the falls and, in places, swim; Plitvice is bigger and stricter, all boardwalks and no bathing.

Inland days go the other way. Mostar and the Kravice waterfalls sit across the Bosnian border, and the wine country behind the city fills its own half day.

Practical

• Ferries. The port is central and the island ferries leave from it. Book a car space ahead in summer; foot passengers rarely need to.
• The Blue Cave. Entry depends on sea state and is cancelled often. Confirm the refund rule before you pay.
• Plitvice. Two and a half hours each way, timed entry, and the day runs to twelve hours. Krka is the shorter version.
• Swimming. Bačvice is the town beach, shallow and sandy. Everything else on this coast is pebble.
• Season. The party boats run July and August. Out of season the island offer shrinks fast.