Croatia's outdoor landscape is anchored by the Plitvice Lakes National Park — a UNESCO World Heritage site of sixteen terraced lakes connected by waterfalls over travertine barriers, walkable on elevated boardwalks through a sound of continuous water and birdsong. The Kornati Islands archipelago in the central Adriatic — 89 mostly uninhabited islands within a 35-kilometre stretch — is one of the great sailing and sea-kayaking landscapes in Europe, where limestone karst falls directly into sea and the only structure on most islands is an old shepherd's hut. The Velebit mountain range inland from the coast runs for 145 kilometres of trail accessible terrain above the kvarner coast. The Mljet National Park, one of the greenest islands in the Adriatic, has salt lake cycling and kayaking within forest that reaches the shore. Tours by locals who know the landscape beyond the obvious map pins reveal the hidden gems. It really hits differently.