Boat trips out of Ayia Napa are almost all about what lies under the water rather than on the horizon. The main point is MUSAN, the underwater sculpture museum two kilometres offshore: about ninety figures stand on the bottom at eight to ten metres, with an artificial forest planted between them, and the whole picture is meant to be seen from above with a mask rather than from the deck.

The second format is the snorkelling safari. The boat runs along the coast of Cape Greco, stopping in bays where the bottom is stony and fish keep close to the rocks; one outing usually gives three or four entries into the water. A third option is chartering a boat whole: the vessel is taken for your party, route and hours agreed in advance, and swimming can be combined with a call at the sea caves, where larger boats do not go.

Practical notes. Everything depends on the wind: in a swell underwater visibility drops to a metre and the trip is moved, with money returned. You must be able to swim, but the gear is provided on the spot. Take waterproof sunscreen and put it on your back before setting off — under water that is what burns fastest. The MUSAN sculptures must not be touched; it is a protected area with its own rules.