Cruises in Athens

Sea departures from Athens go in two directions. The first is the islands of the Saronic Gulf, where boats leave the port of Piraeus for a full day. The route is standard and justified: Hydra, Poros, Aegina. On Hydra cars are banned — all transport is donkeys and boats, and it is the one place in Greece where quiet in a harbour is not a metaphor. Aegina grows pistachios; at Poros a narrow strait separates the island from the mainland.

The second direction is the Athens Riviera. A catamaran leaves in the afternoon and runs south along the coast: Greek food on board, swimming stops in the coves, the city left aside as a glowing strip. The sunset version is timed so that the sun goes down once you are already on the water.

Practical notes. The three-island cruise takes the whole day, from eight in the morning to seven in the evening, and each island gets an hour or ninety minutes — enough for the harbour and lunch, but not for sightseeing. A transfer from the hotel to Piraeus is usually included in the price; check. Everything depends on the wind: under the meltemi sailings are shortened or cancelled with money returned. There is little shade on deck, so sunscreen and a hat are needed even in the evening.