Things to do in Guatemala

Guatemala covers about 109,000 square kilometres, and its highlands hold 37 volcanoes, three of them active. The capital and main airport sit at 1,500 metres. Most tours in Guatemala start within a few hours' drive of them.

Bases and distances

• Antigua. A colonial city 40 kilometres west of the capital, about an hour in light traffic. Agua, Fuego and Acatenango rise around it, all above 3,700 metres.
• Lake Atitlán. A caldera lake at 1,562 metres, with three volcanoes on its southern side and Maya villages around it. Panajachel, the main tourist town, is two to three hours from Antigua by road.
• Pacific coast. A hot plain of sugar cane and banana farms. Puerto Quetzal, the cruise port, is one and a half to two hours from Antigua. The black sand of Monterrico is two to three hours away and burns bare feet by mid-morning.
• Petén. The northern lowlands, home to Tikal, which UNESCO listed in 1979, the same year as Antigua. The flight from the capital to Flores takes about an hour, and Tikal lies 64 kilometres beyond, so it is a separate trip.

What gets booked

Most things to do in Guatemala centre on quad bikes and volcanoes. Antigua has the most rides. Pacaya has its own, and two more start at Panajachel and loop through lakeside villages.

Cruise passengers have their own excursions. They go to Antigua, to a farm facing Fuego, and to a rum and wine tasting. Monterrico is a ten-hour day from Antigua, with a boat trip through the mangroves.

Practical

• Weather. In Guatemala City afternoons run from 25C in January to 28C in April, and nights from 13C to 17C. The Pacific plain stays at 32C to 35C. Flores in Petén reaches 36C in May.
• Seasons. The best time to visit Guatemala is the dry season, from November to April. Rain falls from May to October. Rooms are tightest at Easter and over Christmas and New Year.
• Roads. Road safety is poor and gets worse in the rains, so travel in daylight where you can. Shared shuttle vans link the airport, Antigua and Panajachel.
• Volcanoes. Some summits freeze at night, and there is no mountain rescue service. Check with INSIVUMEH, the national volcano and weather service, before any climb.
• Money. Carry quetzales for markets, shuttles and tips. ATMs sit in the main towns, but not at every tourist stop. Tip about 10 per cent in restaurants, unless the bill already adds it.