Things to do in Akureyri

Akureyri sits at the head of Eyjafjörður, one of Iceland's longest fjords, and calls itself the capital of the north. Fewer than 20,000 people live here. Its airport, hospital and university serve the whole region, so most day trips start from this town, not from Reykjavík.

The town itself

The centre is a few streets around the harbour, below a concrete church whose twin spires echo basalt columns. The botanical garden nearby is free. Cruise ships tie up right downtown, and on those days the town's rhythm changes noticeably.

• Akureyrarkirkja. The twin-spired church above the centre, finished in 1940 by Guðjón Samúelsson, the architect of Reykjavík's Hallgrímskirkja.
• Lystigarðurinn. A free botanical garden that claims to be among the world's northernmost, growing trees that have no business surviving this far north.

Where the day trips go

Whale watching leaves from two points near town: Árskógssandur, half an hour north, and Húsavík, about ninety minutes east.

• Húsavík. Iceland's whale-watching capital, on Skjálfandi bay, with puffins added in season.
• Mývatn. A geothermal lake area about ninety minutes away, with the lava fields of Dimmuborgir and a natural steam bath.
• Goðafoss. A wide waterfall on the road to Mývatn, easy to fold into the same trip.
• Diamond Circle. The north's answer to the Golden Circle, running past Húsavík to Ásbyrgi canyon and Dettifoss.

Practical

• Weather. Summer highs sit around 13C, winter lows drop to about -3C, and daylight runs from close to round-the-clock in June to about four hours in December.
• Getting there. A domestic flight from Reykjavík takes about forty-five minutes; the ring road drive is closer to five hours.
• Best time. June to August for whale watching and round-the-clock light; September to March for the northern lights, weather allowing.
• Booking ahead. Whale watching sells out on clear summer evenings and cruise-ship days; the rest of the year is more forgiving.
• Money. Cards work everywhere, even in the small villages along the fjord.