The outdoors in Bali starts with the volcanoes. Mount Batur is the one everyone climbs: a two-hour walk in the dark from Toya Bungkah, an arrival at the 1,717-metre rim around half past five, and breakfast cooked in the steam vents while the sun comes up over Lombok. It is not technical and needs no experience, but the start is at two in the morning and the descent is loose scree. Agung, at 3,031 metres, is a different animal — six to seven hours up, real fitness required, and closed whenever the volcano is restless.

Water is the other half. The Sekumpul and Tibumana waterfalls sit in the north and centre; canyoning in the Kalimudah and Gitgit gorges runs with harnesses and guides; and Nusa Penida is a boat ride east, where Kelingking beach draws the crowds and Manta Point delivers reliable snorkelling with rays. Rafting on the Ayung near Ubud is class II–III, gentle enough for families, and cuts through jungle that has no road access.

Nature tours in Bali run year-round, but the seasons are real: April to October is dry and the volcano views are clear, November to March brings afternoon rain and cloud on the summits. Whatever the month, treks start before dawn to beat the heat and the cloud, and closed shoes matter more than you would think — volcanic gravel destroys sandals within an hour.