Things to do in Bali

Bali is small. You can drive the length of it in four hours if the traffic allows, which it usually does not. Into that space it packs several completely different holidays.

The island sorts itself by direction, and the south is the busy end.

• Kuta and Legian — surf and noise.
• Seminyak and Canggu — beach clubs.
• Uluwatu — on the cliffs, for the sunset temple and the better waves.
• Nusa Dua and Jimbaran — resorts and grilled fish.
• Ubud — inland among rice terraces and river gorges, the centre for yoga, cooking and anything cultural.
• Amed and Sidemen — east, quiet and black-sand.
• Lovina and the Munduk waterfalls — north.
• Nusa Penida, Lembongan and Ceningan — offshore to the southeast.

The volcanoes run down the middle. Batur is still active, 1,717 metres inside its own caldera. Agung is the highest at just over three thousand, and the island's spiritual axis.

The island's offer sorts into four.

• Temples and ceremony. Besakih on the slopes of Agung, Tanah Lot on its rock, Uluwatu with the kecak dance at sunset, and the purification pools at Tirta Empul, which visitors join alongside Balinese families.
• Nature and altitude. The Batur sunrise trek, the Jatiluwih and Tegalalang rice terraces, and the canyon waterfalls at Tukad Cepung and Sekumpul.
• Water. Snorkelling at Padangbai's Blue Lagoon, diving the wreck at Tulamben, rafting the Ayung, and the day boats to Nusa Penida for the Kelingking cliff.
• The slower half. Cooking classes, silver workshops, massage and the healing sessions that are a genuine local institution.

Practical

• Seasons. The dry one is April to October. The wet one brings heavy afternoon rain and rougher crossings to the Nusa islands.
• Traffic. In the south it is the single biggest planning error visitors make. Twenty kilometres can take ninety minutes, and a driver for the day, which costs less than a European taxi ride, is the usual answer.
• Early starts. Sunrise treks begin between two and three in the morning.
• Temples. A sarong and sash are needed, lent at the gate.
• Money. The rupiah runs in large numbers, cash is king outside hotels, and tipping is ten per cent or a note.
• Scooters. They are everywhere and are the leading cause of visitor injury. A licence and a helmet are not optional in law even if they look it on the road.