Israel's sightseeing compresses more contested heritage into a small area than almost anywhere else on earth. The Old City's four quarters each carry their own sightseeing logic — a Western Wall plaza, a sacred road, a church whose interior reflects six competing denominations, and an Armenian cathedral. The Dead Sea Scrolls and the scale model of the Second Temple share a museum campus. The White City Bauhaus architecture and the contemporary art scene provide the secular modern counterpoint. Masada and the Dead Sea extend the circuit into landscape sightseeing of a different emotional register. Tours by locals add the missing layer. Take it all in.