Things to do in Peru

Peru is three countries in one: a desert coast, the high Andes and the Amazon basin. The first choice is which one to visit. Things to do in Peru change completely between them.

The three Perus

• The coast. Lima, the capital, sits on the desert shore. To the south are Paracas, with its boats and wildlife, and the Huacachina oasis, a lagoon ringed by high dunes.
• The southern Andes. Arequipa, at about 2,335 metres, has a main square and a cathedral begun in the 1540s. Colca Canyon lies beyond, with Chivay and its hot baths. Puno stands on Lake Titicaca, shared with Bolivia, and Cusco is the far end.
• The Amazon. Iquitos, the jungle city, has no road in. It is reached by air, or by river: a speedboat runs downstream from the Brazilian border, about 12 hours.

Crossing between them

Distances are large and the terrain is steep. Puno to Cusco or to Arequipa is a full day on the road.

What the days are made of

• Desert. Buggies and sandboards at Huacachina, boats around the Paracas peninsula and the Ballestas Islands.
• Lake and canyon. The Uros people live on floating islands of tied totora reed. In the Colca valley the Calera hot baths lie about 3 kilometres from Chivay.
• Cities. Arequipa's Santa Catalina Monastery and pisco, and Lima's food and museums.
• Overland links. Private cars connect Puno with Cusco, Arequipa and Chivay, with stops along the way. Puno to Oruro in Bolivia is also driven.

Practical

• Weather. Lima's days run from about 19C in winter to 28C in summer, with almost no rain. In the Andes the rains fall from December to March, and Puno's nights drop below freezing in the dry months.
• Altitude. Puno stands near 3,800 metres and Cusco at about 3,400. Take the first day slowly and drink plenty of water.
• Machu Picchu. It is a separate trip from Cusco, with timed tickets and a daily cap. Book well ahead.
• Sun and cold. Above 3,000 metres the sun burns fast and the nights are cold, so carry layers and sunscreen.
• Money. The currency is the sol, and cash is useful outside the cities.