Romania's outdoor landscape is anchored by the Carpathian arc — a forested mountain range carrying the most intact large carnivore population in Europe. The Fagaras Mountains in Transylvania carry the Transfagarasan highway above 2,042 metres (the road opens only in summer) and a high ridge trail that traverses Moldoveanu (2,544 metres, Romania's highest) above glacial lakes in a landscape of brown bear, chamois, and golden eagle. The Danube Delta — the largest and best-preserved river delta in Europe, UNESCO World Heritage — is a boat-and-kayak landscape of pelican colonies, white-tailed eagles, and pygmy cormorant in 5,800 square kilometres of reed island, open lake, and willow forest. The Bicaz Gorge in the east is a 5-kilometre road and trail cut through vertical limestone walls of 300 metres. Tours by locals who know the landscape beyond the obvious map pins reveal the hidden gems. It really hits differently.