Armenia's romantic register is mountain, monastery, and the specific Armenian warmth that makes visitors feel hosted rather than serviced. The Geghard monastery at dawn, when the monks are conducting the morning service in the stone-carved cave church and the chant echoes through the limestone and the incense is visible in the light shaft, is a shared spiritual experience of unusual depth. The Tatev cable car — the world's longest non-stop double track reversible ropeway, 5.7 kilometres above a canyon — provides a landscape experience of dramatic scale. The Vayots Dzor wine country in autumn, with its pomegranate harvest, Areni grape pressing, and cave monastery views above a red-rock canyon, adds the vineyard romantic register. A toast with Armenian cognac at the Ararat brandy factory, standing under a portrait of Churchill who specified it by name, provides the cultural-historic register. Take it all in.