Armenian food is one of the oldest culinary traditions in the Middle East, shaped by the landscape of a highland plateau where lamb, wheat, apricot, and pomegranate have been grown since antiquity. Khorovats — Armenian barbecue, lamb or pork marinated and grilled over vine wood charcoal — is the outdoor cooking tradition that Armenian men take personal responsibility for, and the smell of it on a Sunday afternoon in Yerevan is the city's defining food scent. Dolma (grape leaves stuffed with lamb, rice, and herbs, finished in a lemon-broth braise) and manti (tiny boat-shaped dumplings of beef baked until crispy, served with yogurt and sumac butter) represent the kitchen's craftsmanship tradition. Lahmajoun (thin, crispy flatbread covered with spiced minced meat, rolled with parsley and lemon) is the Armenian fast food eaten from the bakery, warm and immediate. Mulberry vodka (tutovka), Armenian cognac (Ararat, produced since 1887), and tan (a diluted yogurt drink with salt) cover the beverage range. It really hits differently.