Things to do in Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta, usually shortened to Jogja, is a centre of classical Javanese culture. Its Sultan doubles as governor of the province, the only such office in Indonesia. Most tours in Yogyakarta leave town.

What the old city holds

The Kraton, Taman Sari and Malioboro lie within about two kilometres of each other. One morning on foot covers them.

• Kraton. The Sultan's palace, built in 1755 and 1756, where he still lives. Part of it is open to visitors.
• Taman Sari. A royal water garden built from 1758 to 1765. The bathing pools are restored, and a tunnel leads to Sumur Gumuling, a round mosque with four staircases.
• Malioboro. The shopping street, under a kilometre long, between the railway station and Beringharjo market.
• Kotagede. Nearly four kilometres south-east of the Kraton: the first capital of the Mataram sultanate, and still the silver quarter.

Gudeg is the city's best-known dish. It is young jackfruit stewed for hours with palm sugar and coconut milk.

The trips out of town

Borobudur anchors most of the day trips from Yogyakarta. A full day with Prambanan lasts about ten hours, and the sunrise version with Merapi stretches to fourteen.

• Borobudur. Forty kilometres north-west. A Buddhist monument of nine stacked platforms, built in the eighth and ninth centuries.
• Prambanan. Seventeen kilometres north-east. Ninth-century Hindu temples to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma, the tallest 47 metres.
• Merapi. An active volcano, 28 kilometres north. Jeeps keep outside the danger radius, so the stops change with the alert level.
• Jomblang and Pindul. Two caves in Gunungkidul, some forty kilometres south-east: a sinkhole entered by rope, and an underground river for tubing.
• Bromo and Ijen. A four-day circuit east into East Java.
• Cooking and cycling. A cooking class paired with a cycling tour.
• Private car. A car and driver for the day.

Practical

• Weather. Highs sit at 30 to 32C all year. Rain peaks from December to March, and June to September is the driest stretch.
• Borobudur climb. The upper terraces need a booked time slot, a guide and conservation sandals issued on site. Slots sell out at weekends. Sunrise falls between 5.10 and 5.55, so the day starts in the dark.
• Opening hours. The Kraton opens 8.30 to 2.30 and shuts on Mondays; Taman Sari opens 9 to 3 daily. Both ask for sleeves and no shorts.
• Getting here. The airport lies 45 kilometres west, and a train reaches the city station in about 40 minutes. Trains from Jakarta take about six hours.