Montenegrin food is Adriatic and Balkan in a ratio that shifts depending on which part of the country you're in. The coastal tradition is seafood, olive oil, and simplicity: black risotto (with squid ink), grilled fish from the Adriatic with blitva (Swiss chard and potato), and Boka Bay mussels grown on ropes in the fjord. The inland and mountain tradition is smokier and heavier: njeguški pršut (dry-cured ham from the village of Njeguši at 900 metres, smoked over beech and hornbeam) is the Montenegrin ingredient with national pride — sharper and more aromatic than Dalmatian pršut, usually served with the local sheep's cheese. Lamb roasted under the peka (a metal dome covered with embers) is the celebration cooking of the mountains. Vranac wine from the Crmnica valley — deep red, heavy, and drying — is the Montenegrin grape identity. Loza (grape brandy) is the Montenegrin equivalent of grappa. It really hits differently.