Sightseeing in Seville

Sightseeing in Seville is one UNESCO block and a ring of smaller stories. The Archivo General de Indias, listed with the cathedral and the Alcázar in 1987, began in 1584 as the merchants' exchange and has held the records of Spain's American empire since 1785, some 80 million pages. The Torre del Oro, raised by the Almohads in 1220 and 1221, now houses a maritime museum. The Royal Tobacco Factory, begun in 1728 and now the university's seat, is where Bizet's Carmen works as a cigarrera. Across the Triana bridge, the market's basement shows the foundations of the Castle of San Jorge, seat of the Spanish Inquisition from 1481 to 1785.

Seville sightseeing tours begin with the group walks. The two-hour one, in English or French, goes from Plaza de San Francisco past the cathedral, the Giralda and the archive; the three-hour one goes inside both the cathedral and the Giralda without the queue. Private guides run a five-hour morning with tastings, or a full day with cathedral, Giralda, Alcázar and Torre del Oro tickets included. The Triana market is a one-hour walk or a two-and-a-half-hour tasting, and a two-hour paddleboard class on the Guadalquivir passes under the Triana bridge. Out of town, ten-hour private cars go to Córdoba with a fighting-bull ranch, to Jerez and Cádiz Bay for sherry, or to Huelva for a ranch, wine and the La Rábida monastery. Cruise ships at Cádiz sell an eight-hour excursion.

Practical. Afternoons average 36C in July and August with nights near 21C, against 16C in January. The cathedral admits visitors from 10:45 to 19:00 Monday to Saturday but only from 14:30 on Sundays; the time on the ticket is the entry time, and the visit starts at the Giralda. The Archivo General de Indias is free, needs no booking and is shut on Mondays. The group walks are non-refundable, late arrivals included. The private days collect guests from the hotel at 7:30 or 8, cancel free up to 24 hours ahead, and the sherry day is for guests over 18.