Things to do in Stockholm

Stockholm is built across fourteen islands, tied together by dozens of bridges. Water is never far away. Gamla Stan, the old town, has stood on its own island since the city's traditional founding by Birger Jarl in 1252.

Gamla Stan and the centre

Narrow lanes, the Royal Palace and the cathedral fill the old town's single island, small enough to cross on foot in minutes. Modern Stockholm surrounds it. The City Hall, where the Nobel banquet is held every December, stands across the water on Kungsholmen.

• The subway art. Stations along the network double as galleries, with T-Centralen and Kungsträdgården the two most photographed.
• Vasa Museum. The warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628 and stayed submerged until 1961, now the museum's centrepiece.
• Djurgården. The island holding Skansen, an open-air museum running since 1891, plus the ABBA museum and an amusement park.

Beyond the old town

Boats for the archipelago also leave from Stockholm's own harbour, though the islands themselves are their own trip.

• Ghost and troll hunts. Self-guided puzzle walks through the old town, aimed at families as much as history buffs.
• Södermalm. The trendier southern island, thick with cafés and street art, a contrast to the grander apartment blocks of Östermalm across the water.

Practical

• Weather. July afternoons in the city reach about 22C; January nights dip near -3C, usually with snow. June evenings stay light past ten, while December offers barely six hours of daylight.
• Getting there. Arlanda airport reaches the centre by express train in about twenty minutes.
• Getting around. The subway and ferries cover the islands; walking works fine within Gamla Stan and the centre.
• Money. Many cafés and museums no longer take cash at all, so a contactless card or phone covers the whole stay.
• Booking ahead. Midsummer weekend all but empties the city as locals leave for the countryside; book restaurants around it either way.