Croatia's sightseeing moves between Adriatic coast and interior in a way that covers very different historical registers. The UNESCO-listed walled city above the sea and the Roman emperor's retirement complex that became a living medieval city are the headline landmarks, but the country rewards going further. The travertine lake national park system, the Venetian island towns, and the medieval fortress city of the north all add registers that most visitors who fly to the coast miss entirely. The Museum of Broken Relationships in the capital is a genuinely original institution. Tours by locals often make the place feel warmer, sharper, and more personal. It really hits differently.