Things to do in Osaka

Osaka calls itself the nation's kitchen. Food is why most people come. It is Japan's third city and the commercial heart of Kansai, and it is easy to cover on foot and by subway.

How the city lays out

• Umeda. The northern hub around Osaka Station, with department stores and the Umeda Sky Building, whose two towers join at the top.
• Namba and Dotonbori. The southern centre. Neon signs line the Dotonbori canal, including the Glico running man, and Kuromon Market sits a short walk away.
• Shinsekai. Further south, the old amusement quarter and the home of fried skewers.
• Osaka Castle. Begun in 1583 and ringed by moats. The keep is a 1931 reconstruction, with a museum on the siege of 1614 and 1615 inside.
• The bay. The Kaiyukan aquarium stands on the waterfront.

Eating your way around

Three dishes define the city. Takoyaki is octopus in a batter ball, and okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake cooked on a griddle. Kushikatsu is deep-fried skewers, and the one rule is no double dipping in the shared sauce.

Guided food walks run through central Namba. One takes in five stops and about thirteen dishes. A self-guided food quest covers Dotonbori on your phone.

Beyond the city

Kyoto is about half an hour away by JR rapid train, and Nara is around 40 minutes from Namba. Neither is covered here. The full-day private tour includes pickup from a Kyoto hotel.

Practical

• Weather. January highs reach 9C, with nights near 2C. August afternoons pass 33C. The rainy season runs from mid-June to mid-July, and typhoons can arrive in late summer. Blossom around the castle peaks in early April.
• From the airport. Kansai Airport is on an island in the bay. Trains reach the city in under an hour.
• Transport. IC cards such as ICOCA work on trains, subway and buses. A subway ride starts around 200 yen.
• Cash. Many small stalls take only cash. Carry yen in small notes.
• Diets. Vegan is hard: dashi fish stock sits in most dishes, and the guided food walk cannot cater to it.
• Tipping. Not expected anywhere.