Göreme is the very spot the balloons rise from in every Cappadocian photograph. The reason is geographic: the village sits in a basin ringed by valleys of soft tuff, and the morning air currents here are more predictable than on the open plateau. That is why most of the launch fields in the region lie within a few kilometres of it.

The morning looks the same with every operator. A vehicle collects you from the hotel while it is still dark, tea is poured at the field while the envelope is spread out and filled by the burners — a sight in itself. Lift-off is set to sunrise and the flight runs about an hour: the pilot drops the basket almost to the floor of a gorge, between rock pillars, then climbs above a kilometre, from where three valleys and the volcano Erciyes on the horizon come into view at once. A certificate and champagne wait below, part of the tradition.

Practical notes. Flights happen in the morning only; there are no evening ones in Cappadocia. Cancellations are frequent — in wind, fog or low cloud the launch is moved or the money returned, so it is better to put the balloon on the first day of the trip rather than the last. Children are taken from six or seven years, and pregnant travellers or people after recent surgery are not allowed to fly. Dress warmer than the forecast suggests.