Wellness in Istanbul

Wellness in Istanbul means the hammam, and the difference between options is not the list of treatments but where and with whom. The historic baths of the old city have been working for centuries: the same marble halls under a dome pierced with round windows, the same heated stone at the centre where you are warmed before the scrub. Programmes vary in length and content — an hour covers warming, the kese mitt and foam; two hours add an oil massage and care; the full ritual in a five-star spa runs longer and ends in a tea room.

The second variable is privacy. The group format means a shared hall and a queue for the attendant; private means the time is yours alone with your own master, which in these old echoing rooms feels entirely different. There are single items too: a back massage on its own when there is no time for the full ritual. Sold separately is a romantic programme through old Istanbul, with the hammam built into an evening for two.

Practical notes. Bring your own swimwear — undressing completely is not the custom; towels, a peştemal and slippers are provided. The kese scrub is rougher than people expect, so say in advance if your skin is sensitive. Men's and women's sections in the historic baths are usually separate, in some places by time slot, worth checking at booking. Afterwards the body turns heavy: do not plan a long walk for that evening.