The romantic programmes of Athens are built around two things — sunset and the table. The classic point is Cape Sounion, seventy kilometres from the city: the temple of Poseidon stands on the cliff above the sea, and evening trips are timed so the sun sets right behind the columns. On one of them, by tradition, Lord Byron carved his name, and the inscription is still shown.

The second point is water. A catamaran heads along the Athens Riviera in the afternoon: Greek food on board, swimming in the coves, the city left aside as a glowing strip. There are also evening walks for two through a floodlit Athens — the Acropolis empties after sunset, and Plaka looks different then than by day.

The third line is culinary: dinner with a traditional Greek show, tastings in the markets, private trips to Sounion with lunch at a fishing taverna on the way. Practical notes: sunset slots go first, a week ahead in summer. At Sounion the cliff is windy even in July — something with sleeves is obligatory. A private tour is priced per car, not per person. Sea departures are cancelled under the meltemi with money returned.