Cultural routes out of Limassol lead into three eras. The nearest is ancient and lies due west: Kourion with its theatre above the cliff and villas keeping second-century mosaic floors, and then Kolossi — the square tower of the Hospitallers, from which the wine commandaria takes its name. Further along the same road begins Paphos with its Roman mosaics and Tombs of the Kings.

The second era is the most recent, and it lies east. Nicosia remains the only divided capital in Europe: the excursion is arranged so that you cross on foot through the checkpoint on Ledra Street, and within five minutes the alphabet, the currency and the shop signs all change. The third era is in the north: Famagusta with Gothic cathedrals turned into mosques, ancient Salamis beside it, and the Varosha quarter, sealed since 1974 and standing empty.

Practical notes. All these programmes are private and priced per car rather than per person. A passport is needed for the north, and insurance on a car hired in the south does not apply there. Full-day trips run ten to twelve hours. Churches and monasteries require covered clothing, and Kourion has no shade at all — morning or late afternoon is better.