Limassol is the wine capital of Cyprus, and that is geography rather than advertising. The largest wineries stand in the town itself, and the vineyards begin just beyond it on the southern slopes of Troodos. Commandaria comes from here too: the Knights Hospitaller, seated in Kolossi castle, called their holdings the Grande Commanderie, and the wine took its name from them.

Food trips are built as a climb into the mountains with stops. First Kolossi and Kourion, then Omodos — a village with a paved square, a monastery and cellars where xynisteri, mavro and that same commandaria from part-dried grapes are poured. Private gourmet tours add olive oil, mountain honey and halloumi fried to a crust. Lunch is usually at a village taverna, where meze arrives as a couple of dozen small plates.

Practical notes. A tasting means it is better not to drive, so the option with a driver is easier than a rental. Meze is built for a group: there is no need to order one serving per person. Mountain villages more often take cash, and the shops close early. The grape harvest is in September — that is when the wineries show work rather than just a cellar of barrels.