Things to do in Catania

Catania is built of lava. Etna's flow reached the city in 1669, and an earthquake brought most of it down in 1693. Today it is a port of about 300,000 people, rebuilt in black volcanic stone.

The old centre on foot

The best tours in Catania start on foot, because the baroque centre is flat and compact.

• Piazza del Duomo. A lava-stone elephant carrying an obelisk, and the cathedral of Sant'Agata, the city's patron saint.
• La Pescheria. The fish market just behind the square. It is a morning affair.
• Via Etnea. The long straight main street, running north towards the volcano. Piazza Università and the Teatro Massimo Bellini sit on or just off it.
• Piazza Stesicoro. A Roman amphitheatre of the 2nd century AD, much of it below street level.
• Castello Ursino. Frederick II's 13th-century castle, now a civic museum. The 1669 lava wrapped around it and pushed the shoreline out, so it stands inland today.

Eating, and the underground

Catania eats at the stall and the counter. A rice ball is an arancino here, an arancina in Palermo. Pasta alla Norma comes with tomato, aubergine and salted ricotta, and breakfast can be granita with a brioche.

The walking food tours take about three hours, and the tastings replace lunch. Morning departures include the fish market. One route goes down a lava tunnel to the Amenano, the river under the old centre, when it is open.

Where the day trips go

• Etna. It fills the skyline on clear days. The south slope is nearest the city; guides also run the north side from Linguaglossa.
• Taormina. 55 km up the coast, about an hour by road. A food half-day in Catania can start from there.
• Syracuse. 70 km south, about an hour. Slower routes continue to Marzamemi and the Vendicari reserve.

Practical

• Weather. August afternoons average about 31C. January days reach 15C, with nights near 8C. Most rain falls from October to February.
• Underfoot. The black lava paving turns slick when wet. Wear shoes with grip.
• Airport. Fontanarossa is about 5 km from the centre. The Alibus shuttle and taxis both run in.
• Dinner. Restaurants fill from about 8.30 pm. Lunch runs to two o'clock.
• 3 to 5 February. The feast of Sant'Agata packs the centre with processions and crowds. Rooms are scarce.