Things to do in Messina

Messina faces Calabria across a strait about 3 km wide at its narrowest. An earthquake and tsunami destroyed most of the city in December 1908. It was rebuilt on a wide, low-rise grid.

What the city holds

• The cathedral clock. The bell tower has an astronomical clock that performs at noon. Be in the square before twelve.
• Fountain of Orion. A 16th-century fountain beside the cathedral.
• The Regional Museum. Two Caravaggio altarpieces, the Resurrection of Lazarus and the Adoration of the Shepherds.
• The harbour. A golden Madonna on a column marks the entrance. Swordfish, cooked with tomato, olives and capers, is a classic dish here.

Where a port day goes

Messina is a half-day town. The big sights lie down the coast, and tours in Messina start at the quay. Cruise passengers take a private car with a driver waiting at the port, guaranteed back before the ship sails.

• Etna and Taormina. About eight hours. The car climbs to 1,800 metres and the Silvestri craters, then continues to the Greek-Roman theatre at Taormina, 50 km from Messina. If the volcano erupts, the tour does not run.
• The Godfather villages. About four hours. Coppola shot his Corleone in Savoca and Forza d'Agrò, not in Corleone, which had been built up too much by then. Savoca's Bar Vitelli sells granita.

Practical

• Weather. August afternoons reach about 30C. January days sit near 14C. Rain comes mostly from October to March.
• Crossing to Calabria. Car ferries and hydrofoils reach the mainland in under half an hour.
• Flying. Messina has no airport. Catania's is about 100 km south.
• Ship days. The Etna and Taormina day is long, so settle the return time with the driver at the start.
• Layers. At 1,800 metres Etna is much cooler than the port. Take a jacket and closed shoes.