Things to do in Ravenna

Ravenna ruled the Western world for a while. Rome's last emperors moved the capital here in 402, then the Ostrogoths kept it, then Byzantium. The mosaics they left behind are the reason UNESCO lists eight monuments in one small city.

The mosaics

Gold and blue glass tesserae cover walls that are over 1,500 years old.

• Sant'Apollinare in Classe. Combined tickets pair it with the Classis Museum, which tells the port city's history.
• Domus of the Stone Carpets. A buried Byzantine house with mosaic floors instead of walls.
• Dante's tomb. Exiled from Florence, he died here in 1321 and is still buried in the city, not Florence.

North and south of the city

North and south differ completely. The Comacchio valleys, north, hold lagoon walks and bike routes past flamingos and semi-wild horses. South, the coast turns into resort towns — Milano Marittima, Mirabilandia's rides, the Aquafan water park, a safari drive-through.

Practical

• Getting around. The historic centre is small and flat; a bike covers the lagoon trails better than a car.
• Weather. Summer runs hot and humid, past 30C on the coast; winter is milder than inland but damp, with fog and nights near freezing.
• Timing the lagoon. Flamingos and bird life are easiest to see at dawn or dusk.
• Combo tickets. Church and museum entries are usually sold together and work out cheaper.
• Trains. Florence and Venice are both reachable, though a private transfer saves a change or two.
• Dante. His tomb draws quiet visitors year-round; nearby Florence still asks for his remains back.
• Theme parks. Mirabilandia sits just south of Ravenna; Aquafan is further down the coast, at Riccione past Rimini.