Turkey's romantic register is Ottoman, Aegean, and Cappadocian in three versions that are completely different in character. Istanbul at night — a dinner on the Bosphorus ferry, crossing between Europe and Asia in the dark, with the minarets lit above the old city and the water traffic of the strait visible below — is a specifically Istanbul romantic experience available nowhere else. Cappadocia's hot air balloon — rising above the fairy chimney landscape at dawn, when the valley below is still in shadow and the hundred other balloons are visible in the morning air — is the Turkey honeymoon spectacle that no photograph quite replaces in person. The Aegean coast gulet sailing trip, between Bodrum and Marmaris, anchoring in empty coves for swimming at noon and sleeping on deck under stars — provides the Mediterranean version. A Turkish bath (hamam) ritual for two, in an Ottoman building of the 17th century, provides the historical spa register. That's where the magic happens.