Romantic in Turkey

Turkey's romantic programme is almost entirely tied to sunset and sunrise — the two hours a day for which separate formats exist here at all. The evening belongs to the Bosphorus: a sunset cruise with tea and biscuits, a small group on a yacht with snacks, or a private departure with no one else aboard. At that hour the city lights from below, the bridges turn to outlines, and the difference between a large excursion boat and a yacht for six is more noticeable than at any other time.

The morning belongs to the air. Cappadocia's balloons rise before dawn, and there are two ways to take part: fly yourself, or watch from the ground as hundreds of baskets lift out of the valleys — the second is cheaper and in its own way stronger. At Pamukkale the balloon goes over the white terraces. For those who want to stretch it out, there is a package with a flight from Istanbul, two days with a night in a cave hotel.

Separately there are horses and slow water. A ride at the waterline near Istanbul takes half an hour; the Cappadocian sunset ride runs two hours through the valleys. Bodrum adds an unhurried boat day along the coast where nobody is going anywhere. Practical notes: sunset falls near eight in summer and closer to five in winter, and departure times shift with it. Balloons are cancelled on wind, so keep a spare morning for them.