Wellness in Turkey

Wellness in Turkey means the hammam first of all, and it sells in two versions. The resort one: Alanya, Belek, Side, Bodrum and Göreme run a traditional ninety-minute to two-hour programme where you are warmed on heated marble, scrubbed with a kese mitt, covered in foam and finished with a massage; Alanya adds an aloe vera programme, Göreme a jacuzzi and full-body care. The historic one: Istanbul, where the same thing happens in baths that have worked for centuries, privately or in a one-hour format, with back massage as a separate item.

The second line is thermal water. Pamukkale runs both as a group day tour and privately: the white travertine terraces were built by hot springs, and bathing in them is part of the route rather than a separate treatment. Standing apart is a romantic programme through old Istanbul, where the hammam is written into an evening for two.

Practical notes. Bring swimwear to the hammam — you do not undress completely, and towels and slippers are provided. The kese scrub is rougher than people expect: if your skin is sensitive, say so at the start and the pace will drop. Plan nothing active for a couple of hours afterwards, since it leaves you heavy. At Pamukkale the terraces are walked barefoot with shoes left at the entrance, so a spare pair of socks is worth packing.