The hammam in Cappadocia is what you finish the day with, not what you come here for. The logic is simple: the morning goes on balloons or valleys, by afternoon you have collected dust and the fatigue of walking on tuff, and the bath closes that circle. The programmes are standard for Turkey — warming on heated marble, a kese scrub, foam, an oil massage. They differ in length and extras: a jacuzzi before the main part in one place, full body care with masks in another.

The local specifics lie elsewhere. Cappadocia sits at around a thousand metres, the air is dry, and after a day in the valleys your skin and throat notice it; the hammam here works less as an exotic ritual than as an answer to a particular condition. The venues in and around Göreme are modern, attached to hotels and spa centres, without the historic vaults of Istanbul — but they are closer to your hotel and open late.

Practical notes. Bring your own swimwear; undressing completely is not the custom and everything else is provided. The kese scrub is rougher than people expect, so say so at once if your skin is sensitive. Afterwards the body turns heavy, so do not schedule the bath before an evening programme — put it after. And do not book it for the same morning as a balloon flight: a five o'clock start and hot marble in one day drain you more than you would think.